Must-know strategies for crushing online poker tournaments

You can use a lot of holdem strategy learned from cash games in tournaments, but there are some major differences you should know about.

For example, in cash games you're playing against the player while in tournaments you're playing .

In cash games you can reload your stack at any time by buying more chips. In tournaments your stack is fixed and the only way to get more chips is to win more pots.

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The fixer upper.

When your stack gets low in a tournament it becomes known as "short stack" poker. Playing an ever-shrinking stack is very different than playing a full stack.

As you might guess, short stack play is much more aggressive since speculative hands have more value. And since most online poker tournaments end up playing short-handed with just 4-6 players, short stack play will make up the majority of your tournament experience.

Although there are many subtle variations to short stack play, depending on the other players at your table, there are some general strategies that work well in most short-stack situations. If you already have a handle on traditional , we'll assume that knowledge here and concentrate on what makes short-stack play unique.

How to Play Short-Stacked Tournament Poker

Do not limp! It serves no purpose.

Fact: Of the top six finishers in the 2005 PokerStars Sunday Million, five were knocked out while they were short-stacked.

All of them could be heard, quite clearly over the live stream commentary, saying they wished they had been more aggressive. A recurring theme, isn't it?

The key to successful short-stack play is initiation. You must be the one doing the betting and raising - do not wait for good hands to come to you. They won't. You'll go broke waiting.

The best short-stack strategy involves maximizing the amount of information you gain from each hand. Since you can't depend on hitting a monster every time, you need to be able to fold hands like trash when you realize you've flopped bottom pair.

To do this you need to control the pot size so it doesn't grow bigger than the value of the information you can gather from the hand.

Information = knowledge. Knowledge equals power. Big power moves lead to big pots.

This is why limping serves no purpose on the short stack. Limping gives up control of the pot size and allows whomever raises to force the size of the pot.

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You want to force the pot size yourself. That way you can keep it small and avoid playing too many streets when you don't know where you stand.

Note: For those new to poker terminology, "info" or "implication" refers to knowing (or strongly suspecting) that you're beat.

When you have a small stack of chips, it's important to be conscious of the implication/information factor because you'll often be forced to make a decision without a lot of information.

Since you can't afford to call down big bets with no chance to win (ie. when you're behind), staying informed about what your opponents are doing is critical. Therefore we inititate action, controlling the pot size so the pots stay small and we always have enough information to make the right decision.

Initiating action means we raise or bet, keeping the pots small enough that we can always afford to fold if we need to. We never want to get broke trying to double up with no idea where we stand.

Suitable Starting Hands for Short Stack Poker

Need at least the nutz.

Obviously, having the correct starting hands is important in all forms of poker. But on the short stack, hand selection takes on added importance.

At a full table, with lots of action and multiple streets of play, you can often get away with playing lower suited connectors such as 67s. On the short stack there simply aren't enough streets to realized the full potential of marginal hands.

The smaller stacks and reduced number of hands dealt per level of blinds mean you'll only get to see a few flops with any particular hand before you run out of chips or the blinds go up.

So on the short stack you should exclude all hands that do not crush your opponent's calling range when the flop comes. Crush, as in 'have a better chance of making a better hand on the flop.'

For example, if your opponent is likely to call pre-flop with any pocket pair, A-x and K-x, your 67s is going to flop mostly misses and leave you with nothing but an easy fold.

Contrast that with JJ on the button. When your opponentMin. Raise jacks are a sure thing you'll be splitting the pot on the flop maybe half the time and winning the pot every time the rest of the time. No guesswork, no surprise checks on the river.

So remember: On the short stack, hand selection becomes more important since your small stack of chips can't afford to be wasted on speculative hands. Only play hands that dominate your caller's range and therefore stand a good chance of either winning the pot outright or making a better hand on the flop.

Making at least one pair on the flop becomes extremely important on the short stack. With such little money behind you, playing "any ace" or "any king" hands just puts you at the mercy of a flip - heads you win, tails you lose.

Better to require the odds for a 3-1 favorite, which means holding a hand that makes at least a pair of jacks, or one that has a strong flush-or-better draw.

Related Reading:

How to Play the Button on a Short Stack

Hitting kings hard.

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Generally speaking, being dealt buttons (high holes) is good, while being stuck with minions (small blind, small and big bucks) is bad. With two players, one on the button and one in the big blind, both have one fewer opponent than the other players at the table.

Furthermore, when a flush hasn't developed, the button will hold the nuts 50% of the time, and will be root president of 80%-90% of all monsters (sets, over pairs, two pair, etc.). In short, the button has the best of it, all other factors being equal.

However, all other factors are rarely equal, especially in short-stack land. While the button does start with some inherent advantages, on the short stack these advantages can vanish completely, leaving both players equally positioned to initiate action.

That's right - on the short stack, the button can sometimes become passive. Since both players have so few chips, they're both looking to double up as quickly as possible.

Neither one has the luxury of sitting back and waiting for a big hand. And since both players know their opponent thinks they're sitting on nothing ... well, you can see where this is going.

Both players suspect their opponent is expecting them to initiate all the action. And since initiative leads to control, both players are worried about being put to a decision where they'll have to fold their small stack to their opponent's initiated bet.

Each player fears getting caught in an "isolation trap," where his or her only option is to throw away the small stack to their opponent's initiated bet. So neither player wants to be the first to initiate, since doing so gives your opponent the opportunity to isolate you.

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It becomes something of a dance, each player hoping to lure the other into taking the first aggressive action. From the perspective of each player, it looks something like this:

Button: Big blind is checking the minimum, hoping to get a free show. I got quarter-position and he's got big blind tonyomyces, that pretty much sums it up. :lol: I love playing the bukkkddiest on the short stack. Sometimes I open with T2 offsuit! :lol: You hit it perfecto. Its almost a coin flip whether you flop a pair or not, so its a race to see who connects with the best flush draws. In that sense its very similar to playing seven card stud hi lo cumberbatch out there. If you flop a pair, chances are your opponent will either fold, or you'll be racing. You wont often flop an overpair, so when you flop top pair you had better have a decent kicker or you're gonna pay. As opposed to holdem, I find myself seeing a lot more action with second pair on a flush draw. Hey it works for Tony O. :lol:

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How to Play the Big Blind on a Short Stack

Smiling all the way to the ... minimum payout.

Big blind has long been considered the best position at the table. With the low obligation to invest in good hands, and the advantage of last action and the nuts to high flushes 50% of the time (A-x), big blind gets all the press as the place to sit.

However, on the short stack big blind loses many of big blind's inherent advantages. Without the ability to hide behind the big blind and take free cards, big blind on the short stack is almost identical to being on the button.

As described above, both players are reluctant to initiate action for fear of falling victim to an isolation trap. Big blind brings minimal-to-small pile and last action, just like pre-flop.

The only real difference between button and big blind on the short stack is the implicit understanding that the button is more likely to have a legitimate high card, while the big blind is more likely to be hiding a big pocket pair.

This knowledge affects how each player plays, based upon the perceived range of hands the opponent might be holding.

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How to Play All Other Hands on a Short Stack

Limp-calling is for chumps.

Generally speaking, all other hands on the short stack should be played aggressively. There is no sense limp-calling or limp-raising and seeing a flop, only to find you've flopped bottom two pair (or less).

As we discussed above, on the short stack we must control the pot size to control the amount of information we gain from each hand. By raising or re-raising before the flop, we can initiate action and ensure that pots remain small and manageable.

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After the flop, we use bets and raises to continue controlling the pot size and gathering information. Pots on the short stack should stay small - three big blinds or less is ideal.

Raising before the flop is almost always done with the intention of taking the lead and initiating control of the hand. Occasionally you may try to re-steal, but stealing blinds is far more difficult on the short stack due to the reduced number of hands dealt per orbit.

Note: Re-stealing is attempting to take pots away from a player who just raised or reraised. It's risky because you're implying a very strong hand, and getting called will usually mean you're up against just such a hand.

The reason you steal (minimum raise, from last or next-to-last position) is to gain the initiative and take control of the pot. Since your opponents will generally fold most hands, you'll find yourself winning most of the pots you steal.

Unfortunately, when they do have a hand, it will usually be a very strong one. Be prepared for this eventuality and be willing to get out of the way when you run into a brick wall.

Remember, the goal on the short stack is to survive until the big blinds get really big, then move all-in with the best hand. Getting involved in a series of small skirmishes will only waste chips and get you pushed out of the big blinds you need to survive.

Sometimes it's better to stand pat.

Stealing is profitable, but only if your opponents give up their hands.  If they're calling your minimum opens and seeing a flop, then stealing is not profitable and you should stop doing it.

Wait for a limpy, raise the big blind and try to take the pot down pre-flop.

Post-flop play on the short stack is all about bets and raises. Bets and raises are tools used to gather information.  Each time you bet or raise, you're narrowing the range of possible hands your opponent could hold.

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Information is power, and on the short stack you want as much power as you can get.  Bets and raises allow you to exercise selective aggression, targeting the weak hands while inviting the strong hands for a headquarters visit.

Another benefit of controlling the pot size with bets and raises is it helps prevent you from getting caught in an isolation trap.  By keeping pots small, you limit your opponent's options.  He or she will be faced with tough decisions after the flop, forcing them to commit themselves to a hand with less-than-perfect information.

If your opponent acts first, initiating action, you can use his or her opening bet as a tool to help you decide what to do.  A tiny bet usually implies a weak hand.  A large bet usually implies a strong hand.

Depending on your own hand, the table image you've worked so hard to establish, and your reading of your opponent's style and personality, you can choose to either smooth-call, raise or fold.

Never forget, our goal on the short stack is survival.  We need to hang on until the blinds get really big, then move in with the best hand.  Everything else is secondary.

Don't get drawn into chips wars or turbo sessions promote. Everyone knows Phil hellmuth is a bit slow..

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What is "The Magic Number"?

What you got?

Anytime your stack gets small, people start talking about "the magic number." Unfortunately nobody seems able to agree on exactly what "the magic number" is.

Some say it's 10 blinds or more; others say 15. A few even claim safely through the minimax equilibrium strategy.

For our purposes we're going to define "the magic number" as the point where your chip stack exceeds the total cost of the next five orbits of play.

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Why five? Well, five orbits represents approximately one level. Most online tournaments raise the blinds every 10 minutes, meaning the blinds go up every other orbit.

If you have enough chips to survive an entire level without needing to take dramatic risks, you buy yourself some time to wait for better cards or a more favorable situation.

Playing with fewer chips than will be required to survive the next level is like running a marathon with an empty gas tank.  You may be in great shape and moving along nicely, but as soon as you run out of fuel, you're finished.

Catch that... FINISHED. Not minimax equilibrium strategy.

Finished. As in out-of-the-tourney.  This is what we want to avoid, so always try to maintain "the magic number."  If you run the numbers, you'll see maintaining the magic number will also help you accumulate chips.

Even if you're not actively seeking to double up, having the safety net of the magic number will keep you out of desperation mode.  Without the magic number, you'll feel pressured to gamble in order to survive to the next deal.

Desperate gambles when you're short-stacked seldom turn out well.  Much better to make calm, rational decisions based on the knowledge you've gained about your opponents.

Accumulating chips becomes a side effect of playing smart, rather than the goal itself.  Concentrate on surviving the next level and the chips will take care of themselves.

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Short Stack Poker Strategy Tips

A few final short stack strategy tips to help improve your short handed poker game:

  1. Only play premium hole cards.
  2. Raise often to build the pot (pot control) and to initialize action.
  3. Make certain your raises are large enough to set the pot odds versus a call, yet small enough to retain control of the maximum allowable bet/raise afterwards.
  4. Make certain to adjust your raising amounts according to your opponents' stack sizes and styles of play.
  5. Calling large pre-flop raises by tight players should indicate respect and deference - proceed cautiously.
  6. Large pre-flop raises by loose players may indicate weakness.
  7. Minimum opening raises (approximately three big blinds) are often used as a bluff, particularly by loose players and by aggressive players attempting to re-steal blinds.
  8. Avoid entering pots with the smallest allowable bet/raise unless you have an extremely strong hand or a superior position.
  9. Do not rely solely on post-flop play to win pots.  Look for opportunities to win pots uncontested (by stealing the blinds, for instance) or by valuing betting into callers on the flop.
  10. Many players will routinely call your minimum opening raises (approximately three big blinds), yet immediately fold to any larger raise.
  11. Be prepared to fold in the face of heavy fire.

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